Getting to Valencia

Flying isn’t fun anymore.  Perhaps it hasn’t  been for a while but this trip has been particularly aggravating.   As I’m writing this we are enroute from Frankfurt to Valencia, five days later than anticipated.

We flew out of Puerto Vallarta airport on the afternoon of February 14.  Problems arose almost right from the start. At the security check, the inspector decided that my fold up camping chairs were dangerous items and insisted that they had to be forfeited or that I had to check my suitcase.  Reluctantly I checked the bag.  

The luggage arrived ok in Frankfurt but we still had  another connection. A direct flight to Valencia.  I once again reluctantly checked my bag, but it was a direct flight. Or so we thought.  Lufthansa, the airline on which we were flying, was already experiencing some computer problems, but everything looked ok until we were lining up to board the flight.  Then the shit hit the fan!

Lufthansa staff advised us that our flight was cancelled. In fact, all Lufthansa flights out of Frankfurt, had been cancelled.  All passengers  were instructed to procede to the Customer Service counters to get a  hotel voucher.  The other option was to book a hotel and submit a receipt for reimbursement.   Since we didn’t know where the Customer Services counter was located and hundreds of passengers would be heading in that direction, we decide to find the Metro station, get away from the airport and look for a hotel.  ( one of the airport employees gave us this advise). We took the metro out of the airport to the first stop.  The first two hotels we tried were fully booked, so we got on booking.com and made a booking at a nearby hotel. Five minutes and 26 Euros later we arrived at the hotel. By this time it was about 10 pm. So we went to the bar for a glass of wine to discuss what might me our next step.  

We discussed contacting Lufthansa via phone or internet chat but we realized that these options were a waste of time.  With the booking system down, what could they do? We decided to wait for morning, return to the airport and see what could be done.   

Remember that bag I checked?   It was supposed to be my carry-on so it contained many essential items. I now had no clothing change, no toiletries (except the liquids), no chargers and limited cables, no EU power adapters, toiletries, etc.  Lufthansa gave me the go ahead to buy necessary items so I bought a couple of things… a shirt, underwear and a toothbrush.  That was all I needed.

The next morning we returned to the airport and found our way to the end of the queue for the Customer Services counter.  It was a long queue! We waited in line for 6 1/2 hours to speak to a customer representative.  During our wait we learned more good news… there was an airport workers strike organized for the following day. The strike would affect several airports, including Frankfurt.  There would be no flights arriving or departing.  

This is a photo of the queue to rebooked cancelled Lufthansa flights.
  It is not obvious but there are 3 rows, each over 100 metres in length.
When we joined the queue it extended another 100 metres along a hallway.
It took an average of 90 mins to move 100 metres along the line.

While waiting we researched various travel options. One that seemed feasible was to travel from Frankfurt to Valencia by train.  I approached one of the roaming agents and inquired about cancelling our flight booking and retrieving my checked luggage.  She was very helpful and made a couple of calls.     

She told us that cancelling the flight was no problem. We would get a full refund plus expenses but I could not have my bag back.  WTF! I thought. It is my bag and it is here in the airport.  I was told that retrieval of my bag was not possible but if I gave them an address, they would send it to me.  I tried to explain that I didn’t have a European address that I would not be at one, long enough to receive the bag.  It didn’t make any difference. I was not getting my bag and that was that!

We finely reached the front of the line and spoke to an agent. There were not many flight options available.  After some discussion and failed attempts to finalize a booking we settled on a multi-leg flight.  Even if we get to Valencia, meeting up with my bag was looking pretty iffy. It will be a big surprise if is there when we arrive.

We now have a set of flights that will hopefully get us to Valencia at 1am Sunday morning Feb 19th.  We are scheduled to fly from Frankfurt to Brussels, then from Brussels to Madrid, then from Madrid to Valencia.  There are two changes of airlines and only and hour or so between connecting flights. 

We have spent 3 nights in hotels on the Frankfurt stopover. Yesterday we had a nice day wandering around the core area of Frankfurt. It was interesting.  

Inside the market in Frankfurt.  Phenomenal vegetables.

We just arrived in Brussels and we are enjoying some drinks in a departure area bar.  While we were waiting at the gate in Frankfurt, Linda spoke to the gate agent and asked about out checked bag.  The agent was able to confirm that the bag was still in the Frankfurt airport and she offered to make some calls to see if it was on the way to our new flight. She also offered to speak to the pilot. We still don’t know if our bag is travelling with us but the pilot made an announcement that the flight was delayed slightly, waiting for baggage.  We are hopeful, thanks to Linda’s initiative, I may be reacquainted with my luggage.

We are now on the flight to Madrid. We had been assigned seats but they were changed as we boarded the flight.  I’m in row 3 and Linda is in row 16. We were told that an overbooked flight necessitated the seat change.   From my seat I could see that two passengers, a woman and a child were seated in the cockpit jump seats.  Strange?   Perhaps employees? Who knows?    We also departed 30 minutes late so that cuts the time on the ground in Madrid to 45 mins, if the next flight departs on time, which is unlikely.  

The short stop over in Madrid was uneventful. We had time to stop for a refreshment in one of the boarding lounge bars. The flight departed a little late and we arrived in Valencia airport at about 1:00 am.  We didn’t have to wait long in the baggage area to reach the conclusion that my bag was not on the flight.  

We were directed to a baggage office and showed the attendant our baggage receipt. She was able to tell us that my bag was in Valencia.  Good news!  However the office that handled Lufthansa baggage was closed for the night.  We had anticipated this possibility and had booked a hotel near the airport. After a few hours sleep we returned to the airport and successfully retrieved my bag. A huge relief!

After a quick breakfast we jumped on the metro and headed downtown.  It is about a 20 minute ride on the metro.  Then it was only a 10 minute walk to our rented apartment in Russafa.  Russafsa is an older residential working class, now gentrified, neighbourhood of Valencia. 

Calle Cuba. A street in Rossafa with bike path 

We had about an hour to kill before the arranged meeting time to get the keys, so we had lunch at the DDL Boutique.  This is a strange name for a bakery/cafe/restaurant but it is our favourite cafe in Valencia.   Apparently it is popular with many people. There was a line up out the door most of the day.  It’s one of those places that is well organized and despite the lineup, service is quite fast. The food is excellent. 

 

Linda is in front of our apartment building. In the foreground to the right is the outdoor tables
 of DDL Boutique cafe.   DDL is short for Dulce De Leche which translates in English to Caramel.

This is something that you don’t see in Canada.
Do you see it?


It’s not the clearest photo




    Hint. Four legged table mate.

Our apartment in an “ático”.  This is the name of a top floor apartment.  It is very nice.  The downside, for some, is the access. It is 6 story building and there is no elevator., but only 104 stairs to reach the apartment.  

After unpacking a few things we headed out for a walk. Almost immediately the stress of the last few days melted away.  Sunshine, comfortable temperatures (17C)  and the pleasant atmosphere of Valencia put us both in a much better state of mind.  

It wasn’t long before we found a nice plaza in the sunshine and stopped for a drink.  Sangria for Linda and a cerveza for me.    It is really nice to be back in Valencia!

A Return to Mexico

 We are back in Mexico again after a 3 year hiatus.  Without a doubt, we would rather be in Spain and Portugal but thanks to the Schengen Agreement, we are biding our time on the Nayarit coast.  Such a hardship!

We arrived on NewYears Day. The flights to PVR were uneventful. Only short delays.  

When checking in for the YVR - PVR flight were asked to show our return booking from Mexico to Canada. This was the first time we have been asked this question.  We replied that we did not have a return booking from Mexico since we are continuing our travels elsewhere mid-February.  We were able to show our return booking from the UK to Calgary. They were satisfied with that and issued a boarding pass.   I asked the Air Canada agent for an explanation of the policy and she implied that one had to have long stay visa (temporary resident) or Mexican residency, without either of these, a return booking was required.  This seemed very strange to us.

We have been here a little over a week now. The first week we spent in San Pancho and we are in Lo de Marcos now, for 16 days.   Both of these towns are busier than they were three years ago.  San Pancho is quite busy now. Many  more restaurants and accommodations. Lo de Marco as well, but to a lesser extent.

There is a strong contingent of Kootenay residents here in LDM. We have run into several people we know.  There is a good selection of restaurants. The beach is very nice with a safe swimming area.  There is reasonable amount of night life. Albeit, it is targeted to the more mature crowd.  Live music and open mic scenarios are operating in a variety of bars and restaurants.  Tonight there is Cuban music at Tomatina’s on the beach. We are meeting friends there for supper.

As is the case with the rest of the world, prices have risen. Mexico is not the cheep place to holiday anymore.   Restaurant prices are still lower than those in Canada but a meal for two in a nice restaurant, with drinks and tip, can easily set you back about 1500 pesos,  $100  Canadian.  

We are not big eaters so we easily get by with smaller items or by sharing an entree.  For example… last night we ordered  guacamole to share and one good size taco each. A margarita and a negra modelo to drink.  The total price was was 280 pesos. With tip 340. This is roughly  $18 Canadian.  Generally we have been spending 500 o 600 pesos for a nice meal  

Below are a couple of  photos of our accommodation in Lo de Marcos. There are 3 bungalows in a single building. All with a nice porch.  The building is only 2 years old and the suites are well equipped with two double beds and a kitchenette. There is secure parking if you come with a vehicle. 

It is called Casa de la Iguana. Mario, the owner lives in a suite above the suites. 

The only downside to this location is the noise.  The property on one side is home to numerous roosters and ducks. The roosters crow most of the night. Thank goodness for ear plugs!    On the other side is a car wash. It is not an automated wash but the pressure washer is quite loud, but only occasionally in use.  I have to say that the fellow does and incredible job with a wash and wax.

In San Pancho we discovered a very nice, quiet bar /restaurant with a fabulous view of the sunset.

Back in Olvera

 We have been in Olvera for a week now.  It is nice to be here. We rented the same house that we have rented since 2017. It feels like home.   (It is for sale again, so this might be the last time we rent it.)

As I was writing the last paragraph, I was thinking to myself,  “home”…  How do you define that? Where exactly is  our “home” located?  Sure, Fernie house is our principal residence, but except for the period of time when covid travel restrictions were in place, I don’t think that we have spent more than 6 weeks “residing” in any single location, during the last 10 years or more. Having two residences in BC for 14 years certainly contributed to this situation. 

We are thinking that soon we should minimize the travel and settle in one location for a longer time period     But the fact is is that we really enjoy the change of scene and culture.  We are both particularly attracted to life in Spain and Portugal.  Albeit, not enough to immigrate, but enough to continue to return as much as possible.

Enough of that….. here are photos of our neighborhood in Olvera. The house is located at the top of a high hill in the old village.  The streets are too narrow for cars, bikes and scooters can enter   

This is an old comunal water supply at the entrance to the area. 
It is still functional. 

View from patio 

The doorway on the far right is the entrance to the house.  In the upper part of the photo is one of the access lanes. 

Coming down the lane to the house 

The house is on the corner of the street. One of the rooftop patios is visible. 

We have been busy since we arrived.  The first couple of days we spent getting organized. We had some stuff stored at a friends place and our bikes were in storage in a shed in a small farm located on the edge of town.  Everything had stored well.  

The bikes were a little dusty but cleaned up.  No problem with the batteries. Both had a good charge.  We have done three good bike rides since we arrived.  The first was a short out and back trip on the vía verde (bike path on abandoned rail line). The other two were circular routes.  The first of these was  about 47k and todays ride was about 44k. 

The area we are in is very hilly.  One is generally riding downhill or uphill.  There are few level areas.  Below is a screen shot from my phone of today’s ride.  Note the “elevation gain” in the bottom right corner of the screen shot.  Even on a e-bike, 4147 metres (13,606 ft) of climbing is quite a bit of work.   We ride the bikes more like a normal bike than an e-bike. We only use a minimum of assist so as to keep moving. We are generally in the lowest gear on the steeper climbs.  We both had more than 60% of the battery power remaining when we finished the ride.  The batteries had more power left than we did! It was a pretty tough ride in hot conditions.

A couple of days ago we took a bus into the city of Jerez.  Jerez is located about 100k west of Olvera. We went there to pickup a scooter that we have rented for two weeks.  It is only a 125cc scooter but it is physically larger than a most scooters. (This model is available with a 350cc motor). It is one of the newer “X” type scooters introduced by Honda a few years ago. (Not available in North America). It is cross between a scooter and a motorcycle.  Larger wheels, better suspension, antilock disc brakes and on/off road tires. It has excellent passenger seating and the 125cc version is cable of cruising at speeds up to 90 kph. It will be perfect for short trips around this area and will give us more flexibility.  It is really fun to ride and inexpensive to rent.  

Below are a few photos taken during our bike rides.    The top photo was taken on a local access road coming into the village of la Muela.  Later on we came around a bend, the road ahead was full of goats being bearded back from their grazing area.  Dad was driving the car and his young sone was out helping to keep the stragglers moving.  We stopped on the side of the road so as not to impede their progress. 

View from near the house. Remains of old village wall to the right. 

Almost sunset shot from the rooftop patio