Roma e Firenze

We have spent the last couple of weeks in Italy.  We flew into Rome on April 11th and spent 4 night there before taking the train to Florence. This is out first time in Italy.  We don't normally spend much time in larger cities, particularly the more touristy ones, so this was a new experience for us. 

Generally speaking this has not been "our cup of tea, but, for the most part, we enjoyed ourselves.  It is not high tourist season yet, but it was still very busy.  It is possible to see the main attractions by avoiding the most crowded times.  An early start helps but if you want to get a close look at the main attractions, be prepared for long queues. 

We got an early start and spent the first morning in Rome wandering around the historic parts of town.  Making our way from one popular spot to another. Frequently getting lost along the way.  The crowds increase throughout the day.  It became more difficult and much less enjoyable to walk down the street.  

Here are a few photos of some of the main historical attractions.

The Colosseum 

Approaching the Forum ruins   

Two shots of the Forum ruins 

Trevi Fountain through the crowd.

On the second and third day in Rome we ventured out into the less touristy parts of town. Once by bus and the next day by walking to nice large park, and joined the the locals with their Sunday family picnics. 

After 4 nights in Rome we took the train to Florence, where we stayed for 6 nights, before returning to Canada.   Florence is much smaller city than Rome but it is a major tourist centre.  Our visit coincided with a European school break, so the city was very busy. As you can see from the photo below.

Apparently it is good luck to pat this boar's nose.

Luckily we have a friend from Kaslo who is teaching at a school in Florence. It was very nice to have a local contact and be able to escape the crowds.   Jill and a friend of hers met up with us one afternoon and we walked up to a nice park garden.  On the way up to the park we passed by Galileo's home (photo below).  In the park we stopped at cafe garden, overlooking Florence, and shared a bottle of prosecco 

                                               The Wisteria were in full bloom. 

A few days later we met Jill again and spent a great day with her. At Jill's  suggestion we all took a short bus ride to Fiesole, a village in the hills overlooking the city.  Besides the fantastic view of the city there is an interesting Roman ruin. Unlike the ruins in Rome, one can pay a small fee and roam around the ruins at your leisure. We almost had the place to ourselves. 

Looking back to Florence fro Fiesole

the country side

These photos are of the local church in Fiesole. We don't often go into churches, but this one was very inviting. I don't really know why. Perhaps because it was an interesting but simple building, compared to the huge ostentatious cathedrals.   It had a feeling of calmness and serenity. 

Below are a few photos of the ruins. Jill knew the history of the site. That definitely added a lot to the visit. The amphitheatre is still used this this day for performances.

The town square. Thunder clouds on the horizon. It rained pretty hard on the ride back to town.

A big thanks to Jill, for taking the time to show us around. It made our trip to Florence much more enjoyable

Last week in Conil

Luckily the weather turned around and the last week has been sunny and warm.   The bus service here is very good. There are a variety of bus lines and a variety of route.  We used the more local bus line, Comes,  to make an overnight trip to Jerez, a day trip to Cadiz and another trip to Jerez to pickup a ental car. 

On the first trip to Jerez, we went  to visit a friend who had moved there recently.  Jerez is "Sherry" in english.  This is where the worlds supply of sherry originates.  Jerez is an authentic Andalusian city, not too big, not too touristy. 

Neat building and nice cafe.  To the left are temporary stands
that were set up for the Semana Santa parades

 

I love these old train stations.

 The next day we finally got a chance to take a longer bike ride out to the nearby "white village"  of Vejer de la Frontera.  From Conil it is a 20K ride, primarily along a paved bike path. The last 8Ks into Vejer were along a secondary road and up a steady 2K climb. Thank goodness for the e-bikes.

Vejer is pretty little town, quite touristy and artsy.  There seemed to be a strong Moroccan influence.

This a the main plaza.  Plaza de España 

We stopped for lunch at this Moroccan restaurant.  There was cool wind so we opted to eat inside. The owner  and staff were very friendly and the food was excellent. Restaurante Taperia Sumia

The following day we made a day trip to Cadiz on the bus.  Only 1 hour from Conil to Cadiz.  The city of Cadiz is located to a narrow peninsular. Located on the bay side of the peninsular  is a huge port. On the ocean side  is a long string of beaches. There were lots of surfers in the water. It is an interesting place to visit.

A Praying Mantis  appeared on our porch yesterday evening. It awkwardly made it's way slowly across the floor and under the couch.  I'm not sure if this one was injured or not but it has very unsteady gait.  

        We spend a few hours on the beach this week. The temperature got up to about 24 degrees. 

Some interesting art on the side of one of the beach bars

This is Linda's beach art.

Linda coming back after looking for more shells.

There is a nice path along the cliff that we can use to walk back to the house from town.

We are getting packed up to leave Conil in the morning.  We had been trying to sell our e-bikes but didn't get any offers, so we are going to put them back in storage.  We took the bus into Jerez this afternoon and the train from Jerez to the airport. There we rented a car and drove back to Conil. I just fished loading the bikes and in the morning we will take them and leave them on a friend's farm until we decide what to do with them.    We have a hotel room rented near the airport for tomorrow night.   The next morning we are flying to Rome.

Hace Mal Tiempo

When one plans a trip to a location where the anticipated activities are all outdoors, weather is a major factor.  Unfortunately, the weather here has taken a turn for the worse. We have had a few days of rain and very strong winds. Rain is in the forecast for the next few days as well.   Yesterday we didn't get out of the house, except for a short uncomfortable walk.  

Next day...

Luckily, there have been a few sunny breaks today. We were able to ride the bikes into town this morning stock up on supplies and take a nice walk along the beach this afternoon. Rain is forecast to start again in a couple of hours... we'll see?

A few days later...

It has been several days since I started this blog entry and the weather is still less than ideal.  Probably related to the time of year and this particular location.  It is nearly always windy with constantly changing conditions...  sun for a few hours, then back to cloud cover and rain.  Linda just told me that the forecast is for an addition 47mm of rain in the next couple of days!

Despite the frequent rain showers, we have been able to get out walking and biking almost every day but unfortunately we haven't been able to do any longer rides. Below are a few photos taken in the last few days, during the sunny breaks.

There is quite a bit of surfing along this coast, both paddle and kite. This is small beach near the house we rented, called Fuente del Gallo. 

There are a number of cylindrical stone building, like this one, all along the coast. it looks to me that they were built as viewing stations. Some are used as utility buildings but this one looks like a residence.

 

This tree's blossoms are interesting. The plant is a 

Callistemon rigidus

At the restaurant called  TGB (The Good Burger)  The Good Burger come with The Good Beer.

Another coastal shot looking back to Conil

This is a traditional breakfast in Andalusia. This type of bun is called a mollete. It is served toasted with a bottle of olive oil  and a container of blended tomato paste.  The olive oil is used as a butter substitute. Drizzle it on the bun and then spoon on the tomato paste.  It tastes better than it looks.



The thing about not having much to do is that it gives you a lot of time to think. 

Even before the rain started, Linda and I had been discussing the pros and cons of travel.  We really like being able to travel to places we like, but we are also starting to realize we need to accept the fact that we are getting older and perhaps we need to adjust our lifestyle. We still want to travel but "when and how" needs to change.  

A couple of days ago we were walking along the road near here, discussing this very situation. We agreed that it was time for a change.  

Suddenly, Linda noticed an odd object on the road. 

Was it a sign?  We were literally approaching a fork in the road!

The forecast is looking better, starting for the day after tomorrow 😊

Heading into Jerez to visit a friend.

 

                                                                         Post Script

                                                       I forgot to include this photo in an earlier post.

Are you going to trust this elevator?

A Road Trip and a Rambling Blog Entry

 Linda's brother, Steve came over from Canada and met up with us in Tavira. We rented a car and Linda and I acted as tour guides through Andalusia.  

Since Steve was flying out of Sevilla, I booked a minivan (because of the bikes) from a car rental company located at the airport in Sevilla.  The day before Steve arrived, Linda and I took a bus into Sevilla and an Uber to the car rental location.  As usual, the car rental places never seem to have the vehicle that you booked. After some negotiation we settled for a Mercedes high roofed 5 seater that a little smaller, but met our needs.  

For some reason, car rentals in Spain and Portugal are always cheaper from airport locations. Particularly those location just off the airport, that can be reached by a shuttle bus. We rented this car through the web site doyouspain.com. We have used it often. This rental, for 9 days, cost us 173 Euro (C$257) including damage deposit (referred to here as the "excess") insurance.   Without the excess coverage, the price for this rental would have been 119 Euros. We also paid a cross border fee of 20E, since we took the car the Portugal for two days.   When I was shopping for this rental,  prices varied between 119E and 690E for the same car. It pays to shop around. Another car booking web site I use is zestcarrental.com.

All rentals here include 3d party liability and collision coverage up to the "excess".  In this case the excess was 1350 Euros.  It is not mandatory to pay an additional fee to cover the excess.  If you decide not to take the excess coverage, any costs for damages will be deducted from the excess, which you will be required to place on hold with a credit card.  Excess coverage fees from the car rental companies vary but they are generally higher that those charged by the 3 party rental agencies.  In this case I bought excess coverage from doyouspain.com. We don't always buy it. Sometimes we take the risk.  In case of an accident the most that you are liable for is the amount of the excess.

Our road trip took us from Santa Luzia to Olvera for 3 nights, then to San Pedro de Alcántara (on the Mediterranean coast) for 2 nights and finally to the house we rented near Conil de la Frontera.  A couple of day in Conil and we were off again the Sevilla to return the car. After we returned the car, we spent a night in Sevilla aan saw some of the sights.  The next day Steve headed for the airport and we returned to Conil via a train to Jerez and a bus to Conil. 

 In Olvera we rented the house on the top of the hill that we have rented in the past. The hill seemed higher that the last time we were here, but the view is lovely.  

The first full day in Olvera we did a nice long bike ride though the rolling countryside to Setenil de las Bodegas and back.   It really is a very nice bike ride, particularly with an e-bike since the hills are long and quite steep.  Setenill is an interesting town built into the cliffs. It can be quite busy with tour bus loads from the coast but at this time of year is wasn't. We lucked in with  a nice sunny day with temperatures into the 20s.

Returning from the bike ride we rested a bit, then got ready to go out. Our friends, Bodil and Steen had invited us to their place dinner.  We enjoyed a wonderful evening of great food, hospitality and enjoyable conversation.   Bodil and Steen are Danish and live in Copenhagen.  One of the best parts of travel is meeting people from other locations and the realization that no mater where people come from, we always have things in common but there is always something new to learn.

The next day we explored Olvera and the Via Verde on foot and Steve and I paid a visit to El Castillo de Olvera.  This old fort was constructed in the 12th century and has been modified a few times by a variety of occupants. It sits on the highest rock formation in the area and it was an important structure in it's time. The fort was last renovated in 2008. Unlike the church, which seems to have been abandoned by it's owner and is in need of work.

 The following day we made our way to the coast. The Costa del Sol (sunshine coast).  We stayed in San Pedro for 2 nights, in a small local hotel, Hotel Doña Catalina, pretty basic, but clean, comfortable,  affordable, friendly and a good location in the town centre. 

On way to the coast we stopped in Ronda for couple of hours.  Ronda is popular inland tourist town. The main attraction is the bridge that spans a gap across a deep gorge.  Even though is is a low tourist time of the year, Ronda was unexpectedly busy. 

 

 

A delicatessen with cured Serrano Ham for sale. Hams like this are available in supermarkets and butcher shops.  You can buy the leg or freshly sliced pieces.

 

San Pedro is located near the south-western end of the Costa del Sol. It doesn't have a very nice natural sand beach but over the last few years there has been more development and improvements to the water front, even to the point of trucking in sand to improve the quality of the beach.  

There is a walking/cycling path along the water front that extends the10 kilometres from San Pedro to Marbella.  Marbella is city of about 160,000.  It has all the tourist attractions (or distractions, depending how you view it).  We walked the path from San Pedro to Marbella with a stop in Puerto Banus.   

Puerto Banus is an upscale community with high end stores and a marina large enough to dock your multi million dollar yacht.  There is one notable attraction in Puert Banus, particularly for Linda. A department store named "El Corte Ingles" (The English Cut). It is definitely on her "favourites" list.  Actually, I like it too. It reminds me of the department stores of old, when Eatons and The Bay were in their prime. El Corte has a nice selection of clothing, sports wear, sporting goods, electronics, furniture, appliances and a huge are dedicated to makeup.  A seeming very important item here in Spain!  

The display / product marketing is interesting. On the clothing floor for example, mini departments are dedicated to each clothing line... Hugo Boss, Tommy Hilfiger, Levi, Timberland, etc...  Also there is a section for more formal wear and another for more casual wear.  One noticeable difference between canadian stores and El Corte is the number of staff.  Helpful knowledgeable service is always available.

 

Steve checking out a hotel beach club near Puerto Banus. 

 

Marbella is quite a nice city. As well as an excellent beach there is an interesting park with several Salvador Dalí sculptures and a pretty old town.  

 

After having a look around Marbella and a stop for a bite to eat we made our way to the main road, opened the Uber app and 3 minutes later we were on our way back to San Pedro.  

 Another side comment...  We love the way that Uber works, at least for the passenger.  

Mainly it is in the process of finding the ride.   Open the app, enter your destination, look at the ride options (complete with prices), select the one you prefer, get a confirmation with instructions to move to  the meeting place, if where you are is not appropriate. Then wait for the car to arrive. The app gives you a description of the car, it's license plate number and when it will arrive.   The payment is processed on you credit card.      I can't understand why normal taxi companies don't adopt an online booking app similar to Uber.  It is so convenient!

 The next day we drove from San Pedro to the house we rented on the outskirts of Conil de la Frontera.  

A note on the naming of towns in this region...   "Frontera' means "Border", hence "de la Frontera" designates a border town.   Many towns in Andalusia are similarly named.. Jeraz de la Frontera , etc. etc.  Border of what? you might ask. It was the border of land once controlled by the Moors on one side and and the Christians on the other.  The border map was constantly being redrawn so there are former border towns from the coast to a few hundred kilometres inland.

On the way to to Conil the route passes by Gibraltar.  Linda and I visited Gibraltar several years ago but Steve mentioned that he would like to visit it, since we were so close.   Linda and I visited Gibraltar pre-Brexit.  At that time we parked on the Spanish side of the border and simply walked across the border into Gibraltar.   We expected that the situation had changed and were prepared with our passports in readiness.

Our plan was to park on the Spanish side of the border and walk across the border. Unfortunately, as we approached a border parking lot, I opted to follow google map's instructions rather than another "Parking" sign.  Apparently the situation had changed since google updated their map and the displayed entrance to the parking lot had been blocked and were now in the line of cars waiting to drive into Gibraltar.  By the time we recognized the error, several cars were behind us. We were stuck. The line was not moving!   We sat stationary for some time, trying to figure out if there was an escape option. I did not want to drive into Gibraltar!  There was no escape route. We inched forward for over an hour until we reached the border.  Luckily I was able to tell the border official that we really didn't want to drive into Gibraltar. She called to another border official who directed us to a shortcut to get us into a line of cars trying to exit Gibraltar.   

After a relatively short wait we reached the border guards booth. Thinking that we had never left the car  and we would just be waived through was a mistake. We had to prove that we had accommodation booked in Spain as well as showing the border guard that we had airplane tickets booked from the EU to Canada.  That was unexpected so it took awhile to find the necessary information.  Two hours from the time we erroneous entered the border crossing line we finally we made it back into Spain.    We found a cafe and stopped for a bite to eat.  Collectively we decided that we weren't going to see Gibraltar today.   At least Steve got a photo!  And a story to tell.

From Gibraltar the drive to Conil was uneventful. We made a short stop in Tarifa on the way and arrived at our destination on time.  After unloading, we made a short trip to the grocery store and stocked the cupboard.  I was glad to not have to drive for a couple of days. 

The house that we rented is located about 3K west of the town of Conil. It is a 3 bedroom. 2 bathroom home with a nice large yard, porch, pool, outdoor eating and BBQ area.  This part of the countryside is semi rural. There is mix of clusters of home and small farms and a network of narrow paved roads. Excellent for biking.

Here are a few photos of the outside of the house and yard.

Steve catching the rays by the pool

 We picked up some BBQ briquettes today. Haven't used them for a while.

 

 

We have had a couple of pool days since we arrived. The water in the pool is cold but not as cold as Kootenay Lake in the summer.  As you can see from the sky in this photo, it's not a pool day today. It is threatening rain and it is quite windy. We biked out to a community about 8K from the house. The wind was very strong at times with gust over 60kph.  The forecast for the next few days is not looking good.

I don't know what type of grass or ground cover this is. The blades are much wider than grass, as we know it.  When you walk on this is feels very spongy. Almost like walking on medium-soft foam on the ground of a kid's place structure area. 

 

There are many succulent plant if the house and garden.  This one by the pool is interesting. 

After returning the car and before Steve's flight we were able to spend a nice afternoon and evening walking around Sevilla and visiting some interesting sites.

These photos are of Plaza de España in Sevilla.  

It is beautiful and is one of the most visited locations. It is very busy in the summer.

 

That's it for now....