Caleta to Paztcuaro

Leaving Caleta behind us, we continued south down hwy 200. About 60k down the road we turned inland on Hwy 37 and started climbing into the Sierras. The 2 lane highway is in good condition but with a fairly rough seal coat. It is a contuously winding road and progress was slow. 

We were on the road for 100k until we intercepted Hyw 37D, the pay road. Normally we avoid the pay roads but it took 2 1/2 hours to cover the first 100k of Hwy 37 and with almost 200k to go we opted for the pay road for the remainder of this days ride.

The 100k on 37 was an interesting ride though. There was hardly any traffic And only a few small settlements.  However, about 1/2 way along 37 we reached the large and busy town of Arteaga. After over an hour of concentration though the continuous turns, it was time for a break. We found a place to park on the main drag through town and stood in the shade with a couple of Coca Light and watched the action. Trucks and buses mixed in with a 14 year old guy blasting up and down the street on dirt racing quad, 3 chica as on a scooter cruising for chicos and a constant stream of pedestrians crossing the street, picking their way though the traffic.

If this scene wasn't interesting enough it was accentuated with the arrival of a convoy of Federales (national police force). They came driving down the street led by an armored truck with large calibre machine gun mounted above the cab. The fellow manning the gun dressed in black with bullet belts over both shoulder. (nice affect) Several others in the truck also were carrying huge automatic weapons. All were wearing full riot gear and some wore black mask. This vehicle was followed by several other militay type enclosed armoured vehicles, both uwith an officer manning a machine gun from the top turret.

We were resting long enough to see them come back down the street in the other dirrection.... An obvious show of force. All I could think was... if only I could take a picture?  But something told me that might not be good idea.

When we finally reached the junction with the pay road,  we topped up the tank at a local gas guy, and jumped on the autopista. The posted speed limit is 110k but like most other speed signs here, it's only a suggestion. We stay near 110 but were constantly passed. This road is a 2 lane limited address road with a breakdown shoulder on either side. This shoulder is also used by slower moving vehicle to allow other vehicles to pass. Technically the road is only 2 lanes but since it wide enough for more than two, why waste the space, seems to be the mentality. It not uncommon for the vehicle being passed to move a little right and the approaching car to move a little to allow a for a passing lane down the middle. From what we observed the car in the middle could easily be cursing along at 160k.

We arrived in Patzquaro about 4pm. The city is at about 2200 meters  so the is plenty of vegetation, pine trees and blossoms on some of the deciuous trees. NormalH temperature here vary from 5c to 25c. This is one of the oldest cities in Mexico and has a well preserved downtown area that operates much as it did a couple of hundred years ago.

When we arrived it was very busy, but it was holiday here yesterday and many of the tourist were here for the weekend, most from the state capital Morelia. Today is much quieter. I'm writing this sitting at a cafe under the stone arches covering the side walk in from of our hotel.

Even though this is fairly touristy area, there are few non Mexicans. Therefore prices are very reasonable by Canadian standards. We have an extremely nice room that includes a full breakfast for less than $40. 

Today we took a day off from travel to catch up on the laundry and bike maintenance. Besides.. They have great iced moca frapacinos at this cafe.

Tommorow we head north to Mazamitla, another of the Pueblos Magicos. After that we are visiting with a Canadian couple that run motorcycle tours out of Ajijic. I met them at the Calgary motorcycle show.