The Batopilas Adventure

Day 7 – Creel to Batopilas

Wow! What a day! We left Creel about 10:00, after a hearty breakfast, and rode highway 25 south out of Creel. The route from Creel to Batopilas consists of 75 K of paved road and 65 K of dirt and dust.

The highway ride was wonderful (and relaxing). It winds, up and down, through high pine forests with a few small lakes and farmland intermixed. As we approached the Batopilas junctions were met several other motorcycles heading north. We stopped at the intersection to air down the tires for the dirt road. As we were doing this, several motorcyclist arrived at the junction. They were all part of a tour group that had been down in “Bato” (adventure rider slang) for a couple of days. We chatted with them and they volunteered some helpful information... road conditions, what to watch for, accommodation suggestions, etc.

We started down the Batopilas road at noon. There was construction for the first 10K or so. This turned out to be an added challenge. Parts of the road we rode had been excavated and were in the process of being filled and graded. Once past the construction the road was similar to many mountain / logging roads you would encounter in the Canadian Rockies. It winds down, but not steeply though several villages and ranch land. At kilometre 27 the canyon comes abruptly into view. The road narrows and steepens into a series of switchback. Wonderful views and deadly drop-offs. There is an almost constant concern for opposite direction traffic but in most places you can see a fair way ahead and there are small, but sufficient, pull-outs to allow traffic to pass. Down, down, down you go. Back and forth until you reach the canyon floor... but you are not in Bato yet! Only just over halfway. The road crosses a plank bridge and climbs up the other side of the canyon. Then back down again. It took 3 ½ hours to reach Batopilas from the junction. It is mostly a 1st and 2nd gear journey. That includes time for water and photo stops.

We had received some advice regarding accommodation from the tour leader at the junction. Here it is... when you cross the bridge and enter Batopilas stay left. The narrow, now paved road follows the river. Keep left at every opportunity and you will arrive in el centro. There are several hotels here. The one that was recommended to us is called Casa “Real de Minas de Acanasaina”. It is located the far right corner of el centro. Good gated yard for the motos and a beautiful courtyard, in which I am currently sitting writing this report while the occasional tangerine falls off the tree above me.

There are a few restaurants and bars in Batopilas but we were advised to look for a certain home where we could get a nice dinner. This home located in a small plaza just above the end of the main street is identified by a porch and yellow painted railing. There are two tables on the porch that could seat 6 persons. There were only two meal selections. Lee and I both chose the carne (beef) enchiladas. The meals were cooked on a wood burning stove and they were excellent.

Tomorrow we are heading back to this house for breakfast before riding out of the valley and continuing south on Hwy 23 toward Durango.

First view of Batopilas Canyon

Looking down into the canyon. The road is seen in the centre of the picture

Lee riding across om¡ne of the bridges

The courtyard in our hotel in Batopilas. Red door is to our room.

The porch restaurant

Day 8 - Batopilas to Guachochi

Nature’s alarm goes off early in Mexican towns. This morning’s alarm was a symphony of roosters crowing, morning doves cooing and dogs barking. We were up early enough to take a stroll around town and observe the morning activities As is common in Mexico, some residents were out washing and sweeping the street in from of their home, the kids were on their way to school in their meticulously clean uniforms and a truck came round the corner loaded with Mexico’s most common building material, cement. After taking a few pictures we headed back to the unnamed restaurant for a home cooked breakfast. Excellent Huevos Mexicanos.

It took 3 hours and 15 minutes to ride back to Highway 23. Both Lee and I dumped the bike once on the way up, thanks to loose gravel and dirt. We were both almost stopped at the time so no injuries to either our bodies or the bikes. At one point we encountered a truck coming in the opposite direction. Lee was ahead of me. When I caught up, Lee and the truck were both stopped nose to nose on the narrow road. Luckily there was place that I could pull off the road and park my bike. Then Lee and I manhandled his bike toward the ditch to allow just enough room for the truck to pass. The ride to Batopilas and back was a dirty, dusty, tiring and exciting ride... but a great experience. One we won’t soon forget, or repeat, for that matter.

At the intersection of highway 23 and the Batopilas road is a tienda (small general store). We stopped in the parking lot to clean and lubricate our chains, inflate the tires back to highway pressure and have a bite to eat.

It was nice to be back on the pavement. The road to Guachochi is in very good condition. A nice winding road though a pine forest. Guachochi appears to be the centre of this fairly densely populated ranching and farming area. We are in the downtown area in Hotel Chaparro and seem to be the only tourists around.

Tomorrow we are planning a longer day to Rodeo, Durango